1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506)
- Shawn Ramsey
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Re: 1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506)
Great start Adam. I have seen several great reviews of this kit. I almost bought one myself with my last Ammo order. I guess I should have.
I also had my order within a week. I am always amazed how fast I can get a order from Ammo and to be honest the shipping costs are not much more than if I ordered something within the US. Prior to COVID I could order something on Monday and had it by Friday.
Shawn
I also had my order within a week. I am always amazed how fast I can get a order from Ammo and to be honest the shipping costs are not much more than if I ordered something within the US. Prior to COVID I could order something on Monday and had it by Friday.
Shawn
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Re: 1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506)
Step 8 - Tracks
Real easy compared to a lot of link and length I’ve done in the past. “Links” are actually double links and there are only 9 sets to deal with. Fit is perfect with only minor fiddle factor and a very small amount of clean up.
Real easy compared to a lot of link and length I’ve done in the past. “Links” are actually double links and there are only 9 sets to deal with. Fit is perfect with only minor fiddle factor and a very small amount of clean up.
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Re: 1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506) Review Build
Step 9 - Rear hull
Not really worth a post, lots of small parts for the rear hull (towing eye, jack block) all fall together easily.
Step 10 - Fenders
You need to remove the tab for the front mudguard, this was present on the Panzer I, but omitted when converted to a Breda. This leaves two small locking loops per side. They are molded solid, but easy to drill out. This area will also need to be thinned out to a more scale thickness. There are ejector lugs under the fenders, these are easy enough to remove and the resultant pin marks won’t be seen when mounted on the hull. I will be leaving the fenders off until the hull is painted so I can get to the running gear easier.
The mufflers will be hidden by PE shields but are nicely molded if you wish to model the shields damaged. The exhaust piped are corrugated, removing the mold line is painful but they will be mostly hidden once all is assembled. The tools are covered in fine detail and the jack can be positioned extended if you wish to use it in a diorama. The tooth detail of the jack bar is extremely fine, pity it’s hidden when mounted on the vehicle. The tool clamps are molded solid. You could replace them with PE, I just drilled out the latches and whittled them out with a new hobby blade.
Be careful when mounting the jack and wire cutters. The instructions are not clear, and I stuffed this up first time round. Luckily the glue was still soft so I was able to correct my error. Attach part F13 first, then the jack. Don’t glue the jack bar in place as you will need to “extend” it to fit into the top “U” in F13. Then glue F12 (and it’s attached wire cutters) over the jack.
…on to the hull
Not really worth a post, lots of small parts for the rear hull (towing eye, jack block) all fall together easily.
Step 10 - Fenders
You need to remove the tab for the front mudguard, this was present on the Panzer I, but omitted when converted to a Breda. This leaves two small locking loops per side. They are molded solid, but easy to drill out. This area will also need to be thinned out to a more scale thickness. There are ejector lugs under the fenders, these are easy enough to remove and the resultant pin marks won’t be seen when mounted on the hull. I will be leaving the fenders off until the hull is painted so I can get to the running gear easier.
The mufflers will be hidden by PE shields but are nicely molded if you wish to model the shields damaged. The exhaust piped are corrugated, removing the mold line is painful but they will be mostly hidden once all is assembled. The tools are covered in fine detail and the jack can be positioned extended if you wish to use it in a diorama. The tooth detail of the jack bar is extremely fine, pity it’s hidden when mounted on the vehicle. The tool clamps are molded solid. You could replace them with PE, I just drilled out the latches and whittled them out with a new hobby blade.
Be careful when mounting the jack and wire cutters. The instructions are not clear, and I stuffed this up first time round. Luckily the glue was still soft so I was able to correct my error. Attach part F13 first, then the jack. Don’t glue the jack bar in place as you will need to “extend” it to fit into the top “U” in F13. Then glue F12 (and it’s attached wire cutters) over the jack.
…on to the hull
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Re: 1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506)
Step 12-18 Upper Hull
Pretty straight forward. The A1 lifting hooks are very tiny and fine, but they give you a few extra so you can make the appropriate sacrifice to the carpet monster.
Internal hatch handles are supplied but I’ve closed all the hatches so have not bothered.
Two choices to make here depending on the vehicle you are building, horn vs siren and short vs long accessory exhaust. Minor trimming and filling needs to be done depending on your choices.
I have left the PE exhaust shrouds off to help with painting, same with the copper tow cable. Not even sure I’m going to use the tow cable, most period pictures show it missing, just the one often cited reference pic of a tank from 4th Company crossing an embankment shows it mounted in the front glacis plate.
Step 11 would have you glue the fenders to the hull, step 17 the hull to the fenders. I’ve gone the other way, gluing the hull to the fenders so the whole lot can be kept separate to allow easier painting of the lower hull and running gear. Likewise I departed from the plans and left parts D27 and D28 off to allow access to the road wheels.
Pretty straight forward. The A1 lifting hooks are very tiny and fine, but they give you a few extra so you can make the appropriate sacrifice to the carpet monster.
Internal hatch handles are supplied but I’ve closed all the hatches so have not bothered.
Two choices to make here depending on the vehicle you are building, horn vs siren and short vs long accessory exhaust. Minor trimming and filling needs to be done depending on your choices.
I have left the PE exhaust shrouds off to help with painting, same with the copper tow cable. Not even sure I’m going to use the tow cable, most period pictures show it missing, just the one often cited reference pic of a tank from 4th Company crossing an embankment shows it mounted in the front glacis plate.
Step 11 would have you glue the fenders to the hull, step 17 the hull to the fenders. I’ve gone the other way, gluing the hull to the fenders so the whole lot can be kept separate to allow easier painting of the lower hull and running gear. Likewise I departed from the plans and left parts D27 and D28 off to allow access to the road wheels.
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Re: 1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506)
Morning Adam
A Pz I is born, great progress so far.
Looks like the paint shop isn't too far away, just the turret to complete.
I have track link fatigue and am whittling away at something else at the moment.
If it takes off I'll blog it.
Have fun with the paint if it gets cool enough?
Regards
Steve H
A Pz I is born, great progress so far.
Looks like the paint shop isn't too far away, just the turret to complete.
I have track link fatigue and am whittling away at something else at the moment.
If it takes off I'll blog it.
Have fun with the paint if it gets cool enough?
Regards
Steve H
""I need to be creative, to feel ALIVE!""
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Re: 1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506)
Thanks Steve, big storm coming and temperatures have dropped a bit. Hope to prime sometime this week.
Step 19-20 Turret
This was the first place I encountered some fit issues. The gun mantle is too tight for the turret front plate and needs thinned down a touch to remain mobile. The same front plate leaves a few gaps once attached to the turret, a smear of filler solves this.
The barrel is easy to clean up, detail is more than acceptable so I’m keeping the aftermarket turned aluminum one in the stash. The gas shield is PE and needs to be annealed as the brass is extremely thick. I heated the s@*t out of it on two occasions to stop it just folding in the middle rather than taking on a curve.
In retrospect I should have left the turret hatch off. All 4 vehicles had it painted white with a black “X” insignia. I’m now going to have to paint and mask it…
…anyway, build done, on to primer.
Step 19-20 Turret
This was the first place I encountered some fit issues. The gun mantle is too tight for the turret front plate and needs thinned down a touch to remain mobile. The same front plate leaves a few gaps once attached to the turret, a smear of filler solves this.
The barrel is easy to clean up, detail is more than acceptable so I’m keeping the aftermarket turned aluminum one in the stash. The gas shield is PE and needs to be annealed as the brass is extremely thick. I heated the s@*t out of it on two occasions to stop it just folding in the middle rather than taking on a curve.
In retrospect I should have left the turret hatch off. All 4 vehicles had it painted white with a black “X” insignia. I’m now going to have to paint and mask it…
…anyway, build done, on to primer.
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Re: 1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506)
That was quick Adam. Nice, clean build too.
Vincent
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Re: 1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506)
Easy to do with a modern kit from a good quality manufacturer! This assembled with the ease of a Tamiya kit but with all the fine detail seen with modern molding techniques
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Re: 1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506)
Are you sure you don't want to add a couple extra bolts?
Excellent work Adam, looks like the Takom kit has finally made all the older Panzer Is obsolete
Philipp
Excellent work Adam, looks like the Takom kit has finally made all the older Panzer Is obsolete
Philipp
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Re: 1/35 Panzer I “Breda” (Ammo A.MIG-8506)
There was a release of a combined boxing of the Panzer I Ausf.a and Ausf.b by Takom last year. The only place I can find it now is on eBay for $$$.
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